Glendalough

A valley that has been drawing pilgrims for 1,400 years

St Kevin chose Glendalough — the valley of the two lakes — in the 6th century because it was remote and hard to reach. The journey from Dublin now takes about an hour by road, and in summer the visitor centre car park fills by 10 am, but the valley still has the capacity to be genuinely affecting. Stand at the round tower at dusk, or walk the quiet upper lake path before the tour coaches arrive, and you understand why Kevin came here.

The monastic city that grew around his hermitage became one of the most important centres of early Christian learning in Ireland. It drew scholars from across Europe, survived repeated Viking raids, and was finally suppressed in the 16th century. What remains — a near-complete round tower, the carved granite arch of the cathedral doorway, a cluster of early stone churches spread across a wooded lakeshore — is the most evocative early medieval site in the country. Unlike the Newgrange passage tomb in the Boyne Valley, where access is strictly managed and timed, Glendalough allows you to walk among the ruins at your own pace.

Getting there from Dublin

Glendalough sits 55 kilometres south of Dublin in the Wicklow Mountains. There is no direct train. The St Kevin’s Bus Service runs from Dublin city centre (outside the Bord Gáis Energy Theatre on George’s Quay) twice daily in each direction, making a stop at the Glendalough Visitor Centre. The journey takes around an hour and a quarter. This is the only public transport option and it requires booking in advance in peak season.

The more practical choice for most visitors is an organised day tour. The Wild Wicklow Mountains and Glendalough tour is the longest-running and highest-rated option, departing central Dublin at 10:30 am and returning around 5:30–6 pm. It takes in the Sally Gap and Powerscourt Gardens on the way, which gives you the scenic mountain road as well as the monastic site. If you want to combine serious walking with the history, the Wicklow Mountains hike and drive tour allows more time on foot in the hills.

Driving is straightforward — take the N11 south toward Bray and Wicklow, then follow the R755 into the mountains via Roundwood. Allow 60–75 minutes from Dublin city centre. Parking at the main visitor centre is charged (around €4 per car); arriving before 9:30 am avoids the queues.

The monastic site

The round tower is what catches every eye first: 30 metres of tapering granite, still largely intact after more than a thousand years, its wooden cap replaced after a lightning strike but otherwise original. It served as a bell tower, a landmark for pilgrims, and a refuge during raids (the doorway is set 3.5 metres above ground, accessible only by ladder which would then be pulled up). You cannot enter the tower, but you can walk right up to it.

The cathedral — the largest church on the site — dates from the 10th to 12th centuries and preserves an unusually fine carved doorway. St Kevin’s Kitchen next to it is a complete small oratory with a miniature round tower as a bell-cote; the name comes from the chimney-like structure, not from any culinary history. The priests’ house is a small romanesque structure with intricate carvings.

Entry to the monastic enclosure is free. The Visitor Centre charges around €5 for adults and has an exhibition explaining the site’s history — it is worth 30 minutes, particularly for children who need context before the ruins make sense.

The upper lake and the walks

The valley has two lakes. The lower lake sits beside the monastic site and is the busier of the two. The upper lake, a 20-minute walk further into the valley on a well-marked trail, is quieter and more dramatic — hemmed in by steep oakwood slopes and a granite cliff face. St Kevin’s Bed, a small cave above the far shore, is where the saint is said to have spent years in solitary retreat. You cannot reach it without a boat, but the view from the lakeside path across to it is worth the walk alone.

For more serious walkers, the Glendalough mountains offer several routes ranging from a 5-kilometre loop around the upper lake to full-day hikes over Camaderry or up to Mullacor with views across the Wicklow uplands. The Green Road loop (about 5 km, 2 hours) is manageable in ordinary footwear on a dry day; anything further requires walking boots and waterproofs. Our Wicklow Mountains guide has more detail on the walking options across the whole national park.

Combining with Powerscourt and Lough Tay

Most organised tours from Dublin combine Glendalough with at least one other Wicklow attraction. Powerscourt House and Gardens — 22 kilometres north of Glendalough near Enniskerry — is the most elegant addition, with its formal terraced gardens and the highest waterfall in Ireland. Lough Tay, the dark mountain lake known as the Guinness Lake, sits on the Sally Gap plateau between Powerscourt and Glendalough and is a natural stop on any scenic route through the mountains.

If you are driving, the loop of Powerscourt — Sally Gap — Lough Tay — Glendalough covers the best of Wicklow in a single day and requires no compromise. The wicklow-glendalough day trip guide sets out the route in detail.

What to eat and where

The village of Laragh, 2 kilometres from the monastic site, has several cafes and a pub. Wicklow Heather Restaurant at the junction of the R755 and R756 is the most established option and handles tour groups; it is serviceable rather than exceptional. The Glendalough Hotel, a 19th-century establishment beside the lower lake, has a bar and restaurant and is pleasant for a post-walk pint. Neither is a destination for food in itself; eat before you leave Dublin or treat lunch as functional.

When to visit

Spring (April–June) and early autumn (September–October) are the best times. The light is good, the valley is green rather than the parched brown of high summer, and the crowds are thinner. July and August bring the heaviest tourist traffic — particularly on weekends — and the car parks can overflow by mid-morning. Midweek visits in any season are significantly quieter.

November through February the site is open but the days are short. The valley has a particular atmospheric quality in low winter light with mist on the upper lake. If you visit off-season, confirm the St Kevin’s Bus schedule in advance as it operates reduced services.

For a comprehensive look at day-trip options from the capital, see best day trips from Dublin.